Well it’s been a while since I reviewed a chocolate chip cookie but I finally got around to making the Thomas Keller cookie and it’s well, phenomenal!
To be fair, I have to say I haven’t done any side by side comparison; and I did not use Callebeaut which is what I used in my previous review of 10 cookies, but this is one very fine cookie. Everyone who had one absolutely loved them. When just cooled, they have a very thin crusty shell and are soft and chewy on the inside. There is no doubt, the mouth feel is where this cookie really shines.
The recipe includes 5 ounces of 55% chocolate and 5 ounces of 70% chocolate. Since I haven’t been able to find 55% chocolate, I just used Chipits and Lindt 70% chocolate for the other half and this turned out very well; a nice dark chocolate taste, but not overly strong. The recipe does not include vanilla and that seems fine; I’m not sure you would taste it much anyways as the taste of chocolate dominate this recipe. One last thing, there is a cup of butter for just under 2 and 1/2 cups of flour so that is more butter than most recipes and probably accounts for the moistness and butteryness of the cookie.
As I said above, this is a great chocolate chip cookie, the texture, chew and density is perfect, but with respect to taste I find the chocolate taste masked the cookie batter taste so the next time I make these which will be soon, I will try cutting the chocolate down a bit and see how that goes. Perhaps the vanilla will make it back in too at some point.
Now thinking back at my post last year, I think this cookie eclipsed the David Lebovitz cookie. I will have to try this head to head against the Torres and Debbie Koenig’s best homemade cookie using the same brand of chocolate and see if we have a new king. If you’re interested in these cookies see:
Thomas Keller Chocolate chip cookie recipe
Note: From Ad Hoc At Home, by Thomas Keller with Dave Cruz, along with Susie Heller, Michael Ruhlman and Amy Vogler. Keller notes that after you chop the chocolate, sift it to remove any tiny fragments to give the cookies a cleaner look. If you like softer cookies, don’t underbake them, just mist them with water before baking.
Makes: About 30 3-inch cookies.
2 1/3 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
5 ounces 55% chocolate, cut into chip-sized pieces (about 1 1/4 cups)
5 ounces 70 to 72% chocolate, cut into chip-sized pieces (about 1 1/4 cups)
1/2 pound (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup packed dark brown sugar, preferably molasses sugar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1. Position the oven racks in the lower and upper thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with Silpats or parchment paper.
2. Sift the flour and baking soda into a medium bowl. Stir in the salt.
3. Put the chips in a fine-mesh basket strainer and shake to remove any chocolate “dust” (small fragments).
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat half the butter on medium speed until fairly smooth. Add both sugars and the remaining butter, and beat until well combined, then beat for a few minutes, until the mixture is light and creamy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until the first one is incorporated before adding the next and scraping the bowl as necessary. Add the dry ingredients and mix on low speed to combine. Mix in the chocolate.
5. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold the dough with a spatula to be sure that the chocolate is evenly incorporated. The dough or shaped cookies can be refrigerated, well wrapped, for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 2 weeks. Freeze shaped cookies on the baking sheets until firm, then transfer to freezer containers. (Defrost frozen cookies overnight in the refrigerator before baking.)